{"id":282767,"date":"2024-12-23T12:00:19","date_gmt":"2024-12-23T12:00:19","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.transcend.org\/tms\/?p=282767"},"modified":"2024-12-17T06:23:29","modified_gmt":"2024-12-17T06:23:29","slug":"the-hawaiians-who-want-their-nation-back","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.transcend.org\/tms\/2024\/12\/the-hawaiians-who-want-their-nation-back\/","title":{"rendered":"The Hawaiians Who Want Their Nation Back"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"attachment_242330\" style=\"width: 441px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.transcend.org\/tms\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/The-Seven-Main-Islands-of-the-Hawaiian-Archipelago-from-US-Geoloogical-Survey.gif\" ><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-242330\" class=\"size-full wp-image-242330\" src=\"https:\/\/www.transcend.org\/tms\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/The-Seven-Main-Islands-of-the-Hawaiian-Archipelago-from-US-Geoloogical-Survey.gif\" alt=\"\" width=\"431\" height=\"255\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-242330\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The 8 Main Islands of the Hawaiian Archipelago Composed of 137 Islands.\u00a0 US Geological Survey<\/p><\/div>\n<blockquote><p><em>In 1893, a U.S.-backed coup overthrew the Islands\u2019 sovereign government. What does the US owe Hawai\u2018i now?<\/em><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><em>15 Dec 2024 <\/em>&#8211; At the edge of a forest on the island of O\u2018ahu, through two massive metal gates\u2014if you can convince someone to let you in\u2014you will find yourself inside the compound of the self-appointed President of the Nation of Hawai\u2018i.<\/p>\n<p>Dennis Pu\u2018uhonua Kanahele came to possess this particular 45-acre plot only after a prolonged and extremely controversial occupation, which he led, and which put him in prison for a time, more than three decades ago. Since then, he has built a modest commune on this land, in the shadow of an ancient volcano, with a clutter of bungalows and brightly painted trailers. He\u2019s in his 70s now, and carries himself like an elder statesman. I went to see him because I had, for the better part of 20 years, been trying to find the answer to a question that I knew preoccupied both of us: What should the USA do about Hawai\u2018i?<\/p>\n<p>More than a century after the United States helped orchestrate the coup that conquered the nation of Hawai\u2018i, and more than 65 years since it became a state, people here have wildly different ideas about what the USA owes the Hawaiian people. Many are fine with the status quo, and happy to call themselves American. Some people even explicitly side with the insurrectionists. Others agree that the U.S. overthrow was an unqualified historic wrong, but their views diverge from that point. There are those who argue that the federal government should formally recognize Hawaiians with a government-to-government relationship, similar to how the United States liaises with American Indian tribes; those who prefer to seize back government from within; and those who argue that the Kingdom of Hawai\u2018i never legally ceased to exist.<\/p>\n<p>Then there is Kanahele, who has <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theatlantic.com\/politics\/archive\/2016\/09\/native-soil\/501419\/\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">wrested land from the state<\/a>\u2014at least for the duration of his 55-year lease\u2014and believes other Hawaiians should follow his example. Like many Hawaiians (by which I mean descendants of the Islands\u2019 first inhabitants, who are also sometimes called Native Hawaiians), Kanahele doesn\u2019t see himself as North American at all. When he travels, he carries, along with his U.S. passport, a Nation of Hawai\u2018i passport that he and his followers made themselves.<\/p>\n<p>But outside the gates of his compound, there is not only an US state, but a crucial outpost of the United States military, which has <a href=\"https:\/\/defenseeconomy.hawaii.gov\/facilities-2\/\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">12 bases and installations here<\/a>\u2014including the headquarters for U.S. Indo-Pacific Command and the Pacific Missile Range Facility. The military controls hundreds of thousands of acres of land and untold miles of airspace in the Islands.<\/p>\n<p>It seems unrealistic, to say the least, to imagine that the most powerful country in the world would simply give Hawai\u2018i back to the Hawaiians. If it really came down to it, I asked, how far would Kanahele go to protect his people, his nation? That\u2019s a personal question, Kanahele told me. \u201cThat\u2019s your life, you know. What you\u2019re willing to give up. Not just freedom but the possibility to be alive.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Sitting across the table from us, his vice president, Brandon Maka\u2018awa\u2018awa, conceded that there had, in the past, been moments when it would have been easy to choose militancy. \u201cWe could have acted out of fear,\u201d he said. But every time, they \u201cacted with aloha and we got through, just like our queen.\u201d He was referring to Hawai\u2018i\u2019s last monarch, Queen Lili\u2018uokalani, who was deposed in the coup in 1893.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_85720\" style=\"width: 206px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.transcend.org\/tms\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/queen-Liliuokalani-196x300.jpg\" ><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-85720\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85720\" src=\"https:\/\/www.transcend.org\/tms\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/queen-Liliuokalani-196x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"196\" height=\"300\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-85720\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Queen Liliuokalani, the last Hawaiian queen deposed by US marines died under house arrest at Iolani Palace.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>People tend to treat this chapter in U.S. foreign relations as a curiosity on the margins of history. This is a mistake. The overthrow of Hawai\u2018i is what established the modern idea of the USA as a superpower. Without this one largely forgotten episode, the United States may never have endured an attack on Pearl Harbor, or led the Allies to victory in World War II, or ushered in the age of Pax Americana\u2014an age that, with Donald Trump\u2019s return to power, could be coming to an end.<\/p>\n<p>Some Hawaiians see what is happening now in the United States as a bookend of sorts. In their view, the chain of events that led to a coup in Hawai\u2018i in 1893 has finally brought us to this: the moment when the rise of autocracy in the US presents an opportunity for Hawaiians to extricate themselves from their long entanglement with the United States, reclaim their independence, and perhaps even resurrect their nation.<\/p>\n<p>Keanu Sai is, today, one of the more extreme thinkers about Hawaiian sovereignty. Growing up in Kuli\u2018ou\u2018ou, on the east end of O\u2018ahu, Sai was a self-described slacker who only wanted to play football. He graduated from high school in 1982 and went straight to a military college, then the Army.<\/p>\n<p>In 1990, he was at Fort Sill, in Oklahoma, when Saddam Hussein invaded Kuwait, annexing it as Iraq\u2019s 19th province. International condemnation was swift; the United Nations Security Council declared the annexation illegal. An US-led coalition quickly beat back Saddam, liberating Kuwait. \u201cAnd that\u2019s when I went, <i>Wait a minute<\/i>. That\u2019s exactly what happened\u201d in Hawai\u2018i, Sai told me. \u201cOur government was overthrown.\u201d The idea radicalized him.<\/p>\n<p>Before Hawai\u2018i\u2019s overthrow, it had been a full-fledged nation with diplomatic relationships across the globe and a modern form of governance (it also signed a peace treaty with the United States in 1826). As a constitutional monarchy, it had elected representatives, its own supreme court, and a declaration of rights modeled after the U.S. Bill of Rights. And, as people in Hawai\u2018i like to remind outsiders, \u2018Iolani Palace had electricity before the White House did.<\/p>\n<p>Then, in January 1893, a group of 13 men\u2014mostly North Americans or Hawai\u2018i-born businessmen descended from North American missionary families, all with extensive financial interests in the Islands\u2014executed a surprise coup. They did so with remarkable speed and swagger, even by coup standards. The men behind the effort referred to themselves as the Committee of Safety (presumably in a nod to the North American and French Revolutions) and had good reason to expect that they would succeed: They had the backing of the U.S. foreign minister to the Kingdom of Hawai\u2018i, John L. Stevens, who called up a force of more than 160 Marines and sailors to march on Honolulu during the confrontation with the queen. Stevens later <a href=\"https:\/\/history.state.gov\/historicaldocuments\/frus1894app2\/d73\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">insisted that he had done so in a panic<\/a>\u2014a coup was unfolding! It was his duty to do whatever was necessary to protect North American lives and property! A good story, but not a convincing one.<\/p>\n<p>Months before the coup, Stevens had <a href=\"https:\/\/history.state.gov\/historicaldocuments\/frus1894app2\/d62\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">written a curious letter<\/a> to his friend James Blaine, the U.S. secretary of state, in which he\u2019d posed a bizarre and highly detailed hypothetical: What if, Stevens had wanted to know, the government of Hawai\u2018i were to be \u201csurprised and overturned by an orderly and peaceful revolutionary movement\u201d that established its own provisional government to replace the queen? If that were to happen, Stevens pressed, just how far would he and the US naval commander stationed nearby be permitted to \u201cdeviate from established international rules\u201d in their response? The presence of U.S. Marines, Stevens mused, might be the only thing that could quash such an overthrow and maintain order. As it turned out, however, Stevens and his fellow insurrectionists used the Marines to ensure that their coup would succeed. (Blaine, for his part, had <a href=\"https:\/\/digitalcommons.library.umaine.edu\/cgi\/viewcontent.cgi?article=1134&amp;context=mainehistoryjournal\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">had his eye on the Islands for decades<\/a>.) Two weeks after the overthrow, Stevens <a href=\"https:\/\/history.state.gov\/historicaldocuments\/frus1894app2\/d90\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">wrote to John W. Foster<\/a>, President Benjamin Harrison\u2019s final secretary of state: \u201cThe Hawaiian pear is now fully ripe, and this is the golden hour for the United States to pluck it.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Queen Lili\u2018uokalani had yielded immediately to the insurrectionists, unsure whether Stevens was following orders from Harrison. \u201cThis action on my part was prompted by three reasons,\u201d she wrote in <a href=\"https:\/\/www.google.com\/books\/edition\/Hawaii_s_Story\/QrTCvcy0sE4C?hl=en&amp;gbpv=1&amp;pg=PA395&amp;printsec=frontcover\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">an urgent letter to Harrison<\/a>: \u201cthe futility of a conflict with the United States; the desire to avoid violence, bloodshed, and the destruction of life and property; and the certainty which I feel that you and your government will right whatever wrongs may have been inflicted on us in the premises.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Her faith in Harrison was misplaced; he ignored her letter. In the last month of his presidency, he sent a treaty to the U.S. Senate to advance the annexation of Hawai\u2018i to the United States. (Lorrin A. Thurston, one of the overthrow\u2019s architects, boasted in his <a href=\"https:\/\/catalog.hathitrust.org\/Record\/001261385\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><i>Memoirs of the Hawaiian Revolution<\/i><\/a> that in early 1892, Harrison <a href=\"https:\/\/babel.hathitrust.org\/cgi\/pt?id=mdp.39015039601383&amp;seq=273\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">had encouraged him<\/a>, through an interlocutor, to go forward with his plot.)<\/p>\n<p>Looking back at this history nearly 100 years later, Keanu Sai had an epiphany. \u201cI was in the wrong army,\u201d he said. Sai left the military and dove into the state archives, researching Hawai\u2018i\u2019s history and his own family\u2019s lineage prior to the arrival of <i>haole <\/i>(white) Europeans and North Americans. He says he traced his family\u2019s roots to <i>ali\u2018i<\/i>, members of Hawai\u2018i\u2019s noble class. \u201cI started to realize that the Hawaiian Kingdom that I was led to believe was all <i>haole<\/i>-controlled, missionary-controlled, was all\u2014pardon the French\u2014bullshit,\u201d he told me.<\/p>\n<p>That led him to develop what is probably the most creative, most radical, and quite possibly most ridiculous argument about Hawaiian independence that I\u2019ve ever heard. Basically, it\u2019s this: The Hawaiian Kingdom never ceased to exist.<\/p>\n<p>Though Sai has plenty of fans and admirers, several people warned me that I should be careful around him. I spoke with some Hawaiians who expressed discomfort with the implications of Sai\u2019s notion that the kingdom was never legally dissolved\u2014not everyone wants to be a subject in a monarchy. There was also the matter of his troubles with the law.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_282770\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.transcend.org\/tms\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/hawaii-121524.jpg\" ><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-282770\" class=\"wp-image-282770\" src=\"https:\/\/www.transcend.org\/tms\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/hawaii-121524.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"318\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.transcend.org\/tms\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/hawaii-121524.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.transcend.org\/tms\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/hawaii-121524-300x136.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.transcend.org\/tms\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/hawaii-121524-768x349.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-282770\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hawai&#8217;i<\/p><\/div>\n<p>In 1997, Sai took out an ad in a newspaper declaring himself to be a regent of the Hawaiian Kingdom, a move that he said formally entrusted him \u201cwith the vicarious administration of the Hawaiian government during the absence of a Monarch.\u201d He had started a business in which he and his partner charged people some $1,500 for land-title research going back to the mid-19th century, promising to protect clients\u2019 land from anyone who might claim it as their own. The business model was built on his theory of Hawaiian history, and the underlying message seemed to be: If the kingdom still exists, and the state of Hawai\u2018i does not, <a href=\"http:\/\/www2.hawaii.edu\/~anu\/pdf\/Indigeneity_Sai_(HJLP)_Vol_3.pdf\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">maybe this house you bought isn\u2019t technically even yours<\/a>. Ultimately, Sai\u2019s business had its downtown office raided; the title company shut down, and he was convicted of felony theft.<\/p>\n<p>It struck me that, in another life, Keanu Sai would have made a perfect politician. He is charismatic and funny. A decorated bullshit artist. Unquestionably smart. Filibusters with the best of them. (He also told me that Keanu Reeves is his cousin.) Although Sai\u2019s methods may be questionable, his indignation over the autocratic overthrow of his ancestors\u2019 nation is justified.<\/p>\n<p>Sai says that arguments about Hawaiian sovereignty tend to distort this history. \u201cThey create the binary of colonizer-colonized,\u201d he said. \u201cAll of that is wrong. Hawai\u2018i was never a colony of the United States. And we\u2019re not a tribal nation similar to Native Americans. We\u2019re nationals of an occupied state.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Following this logic, Sai believes international courts must acknowledge that the USA has perpetuated war crimes against Hawai\u2018i\u2019s people. After that, he says, international law should guide Hawai\u2018i out of its current \u201cwartime occupation\u201d by the United States, so that the people of Hawai\u2018i can reconstruct their nation. Sai has attempted to advance this case in the international court system. So far, he has been unsuccessful.<\/p>\n<p>At one point, Sai mused that I\u2019d have to completely rework my story based on his revelations. I disagreed, but said that I liked hearing from him about this possible path to Hawaiian independence. This provoked, for the first time in our several hours of conversations, a flash of anger. \u201cThis is not the \u2018possible path,\u2019\u200a\u201d Sai said. \u201cIt <i>is<\/i> the path.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>The island of Ni\u2018ihau is just 18 miles long and six miles wide. Nicknamed \u201cthe forbidden island,\u201d it has been privately owned since 1864, when King Kamehameha IV and his brother sold it for $10,000 in gold to a wealthy Scottish widow, Elizabeth Sinclair, who had moved her family to Hawai\u2018i after her husband and son were lost at sea.<\/p>\n<p>Sinclair\u2019s descendants still own and run the island, which by the best estimates has a population of fewer than 100. It is the only place in the world where everyone still speaks Hawaiian. No one is allowed to visit Ni\u2018ihau without a personal invitation from Sinclair\u2019s great-great-grandsons Bruce and Keith Robinson, both now in their 80s. Such invitations are extraordinarily rare. (One of the two people I know who have ever set foot on Ni\u2018ihau got there only after asking the Robinsons every year for nearly 10 years.)<\/p>\n<p>The island has no paved roads, no electrical grid, no street signs, and no domestic water supply\u2014drinking water comes from catchment water and wells. In the village is a schoolhouse, a cafeteria, and a church, which everyone is reportedly expected to attend. One of the main social activities is singing. The rules for Ni\u2018ihau residents are strict: Men cannot wear their hair long, pierce their ears, or grow beards. Drinking and smoking are not allowed. The Robinsons infamously bar anyone who leaves for even just a few weeks from returning, with few exceptions.<\/p>\n<p>Ni\u2018ihau\u2019s circumscribed mores point to a broader question: If one goal of Hawaiian independence is to restore a nation that has been lost, then which version of Hawai\u2018i, exactly, are you trying to bring back?<\/p>\n<p>Ancient explorers first reached the archipelago in great voyaging canoes, traveling thousands of miles from the Marquesas Islands, around the year 400 C.E. They <a href=\"https:\/\/hdoa.hawaii.gov\/blog\/ag-resources\/history-of-agriculture-in-hawaii\/\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">brought with them<\/a> pigs, chickens, gourds, taro, sugarcane, coconuts, sweet potatoes, bananas, and paper mulberry plants. Precontact Hawai\u2018i was home to hundreds of thousands of Hawaiians\u2014<a href=\"https:\/\/www.pewresearch.org\/short-reads\/2015\/04\/06\/native-hawaiian-population\/#:~:text=A%20new%20demographic%20analysis%2C%20using,as%20high%20as%201%20million.\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">some scholars estimate that the population was as high as 1 million<\/a>. There was no concept of private land ownership, and Hawaiians lived under a feudal system run by <i>ali\u2018i<\/i>, chiefs who were believed to be divinely ordained. This strict caste system entailed severe rules, executions for those who broke them, and brutal rituals including human sacrifice.<\/p>\n<p>The first British explorers <a href=\"https:\/\/www.nps.gov\/places\/cook-landing-site.htm\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">moored their ships just off the coast of Kaua\u2018i<\/a> in 1778 and immediately took interest in the Islands. Captain James Cook, who led that first expedition, was welcomed with aloha by the Hawaiian people. But when Cook attempted to kidnap the Hawaiian chief Kalani\u2018\u014dpu\u2018u on a subsequent visit to the Islands, a group of Hawaiians stabbed and bludgeoned Cook to death. (Kalani\u2018\u014dpu\u2018u survived.)<\/p>\n<p>Eventually, fierce battles culminated in unification of all the Islands under Hawai\u2018i\u2019s King Kamehameha, who finally conquered the archipelago\u2019s last independent island in 1810. The explosion and subsequent collapse of the sandalwood trade followed, along with the construction of the first sugar plantations and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.civilbeat.org\/2024\/02\/the-last-stop-for-whalers-and-sailors\/\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">the arrival of whaling ships<\/a>. Missionaries came too, and the introduction of Christianity led, for a time, to a ban on the hula\u2014one of the Hawaiian people\u2019s most sacred and enduring forms of passing down history. All the while, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.smithsonianmag.com\/history\/shutting-down-hawaii-historical-perspective-epidemics-islands-180974506\/\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">several waves of epidemics<\/a>\u2014cholera, mumps, measles, whooping cough, scarlet fever, smallpox, and bubonic plague\u2014ravaged the Hawaiian population, which plummeted to about 40,000 by the end of the 19th century.<\/p>\n<p>During this period, the United States had begun to show open interest in scooping up the Sandwich Islands, as they were then called. In the June 1869 issue of <i>The Atlantic<\/i>, the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theatlantic.com\/magazine\/archive\/1869\/06\/the-pacific-railroad-open-how-to-go-what-to-see\/630094\/\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">journalist Samuel Bowles wrote<\/a>:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>We have converted their heathen, we have occupied their sugar plantations; we furnish the brains that carry on their government, and the diseases that are destroying their people; we want the profit on their sugars and their tropical fruits and vegetables; why should we not seize and annex the islands themselves?<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>Elizabeth Sinclair\u2019s descendants profited greatly from the sugar they cultivated, but they had a different view of what Hawai\u2018i should be. King Kamehameha IV is said to have sold Ni\u2018ihau on one condition: Its new owners had to promise to do right by the Hawaiian people and their culture. This is why, when the United States did finally move to \u201cseize and annex the islands,\u201d the Robinsons supported the crown. After annexation happened anyway, in 1898, Sinclair\u2019s grandson closed Ni\u2018ihau to visitors.<\/p>\n<p>On the other islands, everything seemed to speed up from there. Schools had already banned the Hawaiian language, but now many Hawaiian families started speaking only English with their children. The <a href=\"https:\/\/www.staradvertiser.com\/2016\/01\/07\/business\/the-end-of-sugar-in-hawaii\/\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">sugar and pineapple industries boomed<\/a>. Matson ships carrying visitors to Hawai\u2018i <a href=\"https:\/\/aviation.hawaii.gov\/aviation-photos\/1930-1939\/\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">soon gave way to airplanes<\/a>. As exoticized ideas about Hawaiian culture spread, repackaged for tourists, Hawaiianness was suppressed nearly to the point of erasure.<\/p>\n<p>Through all of this, Ni\u2018ihau stayed apart. History briefly intruded in 1941, when a Japanese fighter pilot crash-landed there hours after participating in the attack on Pearl Harbor, which killed an estimated 2,400 people in Honolulu. Ni\u2018ihau residents knew nothing about the mayhem of that day. They at first welcomed the Imperial pilot as a guest, but killed him after he botched an attempt to hold some of them hostage.<\/p>\n<p>If the overthrow had marked the beginning of the end of Hawaiian nationhood, the attack on Pearl Harbor finished it. It also kicked off a three-year period of martial law in Hawai\u2018i, in which the military took control of every aspect of civilian life\u2014in effect converting the Islands into one big internment facility. The government suspended habeas corpus, shut down the courts, and set up its own tribunals for law enforcement. The military imposed a strict nightly curfew, rationed food and gasoline, and censored the press and other communications. The many Japanese Americans living there were surveilled and treated as enemies\u2014Japanese-run banks were shut down, along with Japanese-language schools. Everyone was required to carry identification cards, and those older than the age of 6 were fingerprinted. Telephone calls and photography were restricted. Sugarcane workers who didn\u2019t report to their job could be tried in military court.<\/p>\n<p>Martial law was fully lifted in 1944, and in 1959, Hawai\u2018i <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theatlantic.com\/magazine\/archive\/1958\/12\/hawaii\/642933\/\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">became the 50th state<\/a>\u2014a move the Robinsons are said to have opposed. But whether they liked it or not, statehood dragged Ni\u2018ihau along with it. The island is technically part of Kaua\u2018i County, the local government that oversees the island closest to it. Still, Ni\u2018ihau has stayed mostly off-limits to the rest of Hawai\u2018i and the rest of the world. (The Robinsons do operate a helicopter tour that takes visitors to an uninhabited beach on the far side of the island, but you can\u2019t actually get to the village or meet any residents that way.) Those who have affection for Ni\u2018ihau <a href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/1970\/04\/12\/archives\/a-private-island-sought-by-hawaii-but-3-owners-of-niihau-say-they.html\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">defend it as an old ranch community on a remote island<\/a> that\u2019s not hurting anybody. The less generous view is that it\u2019s essentially the world\u2019s last remaining feudal society.<\/p>\n<p>But no one is arguing that the rest of Hawai\u2018i should be run like Ni\u2018ihau. After all, the entire goal of the sovereignty movement, if you can even say it has a single goal, is to confer more power on the Hawaiian people, not less. The question is how best to do that.<\/p>\n<p>John Waihe\u2018e\u2019s awakening came the summer before he started seventh grade, when he checked a book out of the library in his hometown of Honoka\u2018a, on the Big Island, that would change his life. In it, he read a description of the annexation ceremony that had taken place at \u2018Iolani Palace in 1898, when Hawai\u2018i officially became a territory of the United States. It described the lowering of the Hawaiian flag, and the Hawaiian people who had gathered around with tears in their eyes.<\/p>\n<p>This was the 1950s\u2014post\u2013Pearl Harbor and pre-statehood\u2014and Waihe\u2018e had never even heard of the overthrow. His parents spoke Hawaiian with each other at home, but never spoke it with Waihe\u2018e.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI remember rushing back to my father and telling him, \u2018Dad, I didn\u2019t know any of this stuff,\u2019\u200a\u201d Waihe\u2018e told me. \u201cHe looks at me, and he was very calm about it. He said, \u2018You know, son, that didn\u2019t only happen in Honolulu.\u2019\u200a\u201d His father went on: \u201cThey lowered the flag in Hilo too, on the Big Island, and your grandfather was there, and he saw all of this.\u200a\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Waihe\u2018e was floored. Even nearly 70 years later, he remembers the moment. To picture his grandfather among those watching the kingdom in its final hours \u201cbroke my heart,\u201d he said. Waihe\u2018e had never met his grandfather, but he had seen photos and heard stories about him all his life. \u201cHe was this big, strong Hawaiian guy. And the idea of him crying was\u2014it was unthinkable.\u201d The image never left him. He grew up, attended law school, and eventually became Hawai\u2018i\u2019s governor in 1986, the first Hawaiian ever to hold the office.<\/p>\n<p>Waihe\u2018e is part of a class of political leaders in Hawai\u2018i who have chosen to work within the system, rather than rail against it. Another was the late Daniel Akaka, one of Hawai\u2018i\u2019s longest-serving U.S. senators\u2014 a Hawaiian himself. Akaka was raised in a home where he was not permitted to speak Hawaiian. He once told me about hearing <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theatlantic.com\/national\/archive\/2015\/12\/december-7-the-day-all-hell-broke-loose\/625586\/\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">a roar from above on the morning of December 7, 1941<\/a>, and looking up to see a gray wave of Japanese bombers with bright-red dots on the wings. He grabbed his rifle and ran into the hills. He was 17 then, and would later deploy to Saipan with the Army Corps of Engineers.<\/p>\n<p>In 1993, Akaka, a Democrat, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.congress.gov\/bill\/103rd-congress\/senate-joint-resolution\/19\/text\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">sponsored a joint congressional resolution<\/a> that formally apologized to the Hawaiian people for the overthrow of their kingdom 100 years earlier and for \u201cthe deprivation of the rights of Native Hawaiians to self-determination.\u201d I\u2019d always seen the apology bill, which was signed into law by President Bill Clinton, as an example of the least the United States could possibly do, mere lip service. But the more people I talked with as I reported this story, the more I heard that it mattered\u2014not just symbolically but legally.<\/p>\n<p>Recently, I went to see Esther Kia\u2018\u0101ina, who was one of the key architects of the apology as an aide to Akaka in Washington, D.C., in the early 1990s. Today, Kia\u2018\u0101ina is a city-council member in Honolulu. People forget, she told me, just how hard it was to get to an apology in the first place.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cPrior to 1993, it was abysmal,\u201d Kia\u2018\u0101ina said. There had been a federal inquiry into the overthrow, producing <a href=\"https:\/\/papaolalokahi.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/pol-pdf\/11983-Volume-I-Native-Hawaiians-Study-Commission-Report.pdf\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">a dueling pair<\/a> of <a href=\"https:\/\/papaolalokahi.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/pol-pdf\/21983-Volume-II-Native-Hawaiians-Study-Commission-Report.pdf\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">reports in the 1980s<\/a>, one of which concluded that the U.S. bore no responsibility for what had happened to Hawai\u2018i, and that Hawaiians should not receive reparations as a result. Without the United States first admitting wrongdoing, Kia\u2018\u0101ina said, nothing else could follow. As she saw it, the apology was the first in a series of steps. The next would be to obtain official tribal status for Hawaiians from the Department of the Interior, similar to the way the United States recognizes hundreds of North American Indian and Alaska Native tribes. Then full-on independence.<\/p>\n<p>In the early 2000s, Akaka began pushing legislation that would create a path to federal recognition for Hawaiians as a tribe, a move that Kia\u2018\u0101ina enthusiastically supported. \u201cI was Miss Fed Rec,\u201d she said. It wasn\u2019t a compliment\u2014lots of people hated the idea.<\/p>\n<p>The federal-recognition legislation would have made Native Hawaiians one of the largest tribes in the USA overnight\u2014but many Hawaiians didn\u2019t want recognition from the United States at all. The debate created strange bedfellows. Many people argued against it on the grounds that it didn\u2019t go far enough; they wanted their country back, not tribal status. Meanwhile, some conservatives in Hawai\u2018i, who tended to be least moved by calls for Hawaiian rights, fought against the bill, arguing that it was a reductionist and maybe even unconstitutional attempt to codify preferential treatment on the basis of race. That\u2019s how a coalition briefly formed that included Hawaiian nationalists and their anti-affirmative-action neighbors.<\/p>\n<p>Akaka\u2019s legislation never passed, and the senator died in 2018. Today, some people say the debate over federal recognition was a distraction, but Kia\u2018\u0101ina still believes that it\u2019s the only way to bring about self-determination for Hawaiians. She told me that she sometimes despairs at what the movement has become: She sees people rage against the overthrow, and against the continued presence of the U.S. military in Hawai\u2018i, but do little else to promote justice for Hawaiians. And within government, she sees similar complacency.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIt\u2019s almost like \u2018Are you kidding me? We give you the baton and this is what you do?\u2019\u200a\u201d Kia\u2018\u0101ina said. Instead of effecting change, she told me, people playact Hawaiianness and think it will be enough. They \u201cslap on a Hawaiian logo,\u201d and \u201cthat\u2019s your contribution to helping the Hawaiian community.\u201d And in the end, nobody outside Hawai\u2018i is marching in the street, protesting at the State Department, or occupying campus quads for Native Hawaiians.<\/p>\n<p>There is no question that awareness of Hawaiian history and culture has improved since the 1970s, a period that\u2019s come to be known as the Hawaiian Renaissance, when activists took steps to <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theatlantic.com\/education\/archive\/2019\/12\/how-hawaiian-language-was-saved-extinction\/603097\/\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">restore the Hawaiian language<\/a> in public places, to teach hula more widely, and to protect and restore other cultural practices. But Kia\u2018\u0101ina told me that although the cultural and language revival is lovely, and essential, it can lull people into thinking that the work is done when plainly it is not. Especially when Hawaiians are running out of time.<\/p>\n<p>Sometime around 2020, the Hawaiian people crossed a terrible threshold. For the first time ever, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.oha.org\/news\/new-census-data-more-native-hawaiians-reside-continent\/\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">more Hawaiians lived outside Hawai\u2018i than in the Islands<\/a>. Roughly 680,000 Hawaiians live in the United States, according to the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.census.gov\/library\/stories\/2023\/09\/2020-census-dhc-a-nhpi-population.html\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">most recent census data<\/a>; some 300,000 of them <a href=\"https:\/\/www.oha.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/TRENDS_Population-2005-2022_HI.pdf\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">live in Hawai\u2018i<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Hawaiians now make up about 20 percent of the state population, a proportion that for many inspires existential fear. Meanwhile, outsiders are getting rich in Hawai\u2018i, and rich outsiders are buying up Hawaiian land. Larry Ellison, a co-founder of Oracle, owns most of the island of L\u0101na\u2018i. Facebook\u2019s co-founder Mark Zuckerberg owns a property on Kaua\u2018i estimated to be worth about $300 million. Salesforce\u2019s CEO, Marc Benioff, has reportedly purchased nearly $100 million worth of land on the Big Island. Amazon\u2019s founder, Jeff Bezos, reportedly paid some $80 million for his estate on Maui. As one longtime Hawai\u2018i resident put it to me: The sugar days may be over, but Hawai\u2018i is still a plantation town.<\/p>\n<p>At the same time, many Hawaiians are faring poorly. Few have the means to live in Hawai\u2018i\u2019s wealthy neighborhoods. On O\u2018ahu, a commute to Waik\u012bk\u012b for those with hotel or construction jobs there can take hours in island traffic. Hawaiians have among the highest rates of heart disease, hypertension, asthma, diabetes, and some types of cancer compared with other ethnic groups. They <a href=\"https:\/\/hhdw.org\/report\/indicator\/summary\/SmokeCurrentAdultAA.html\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">smoke<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/hhdw.org\/report\/indicator\/summary\/AlcoholBingeDrinkAdult.html\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">binge drink<\/a> at higher rates. A quarter of Hawaiian households <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ksbe.edu\/assets\/pdfs\/Imi_Pono-Local_Foods-Sept_2022.pdf\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">can\u2019t adequately feed themselves<\/a>. More than half of Hawaiians report worrying about having enough money to keep a roof over their head; the <a href=\"https:\/\/files.hawaii.gov\/dbedt\/economic\/reports\/Detailed-race-characteristics_ACS2021.pdf#page=28\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">average per capita income<\/a> is less than $28,000. Only <a href=\"https:\/\/files.hawaii.gov\/dbedt\/economic\/reports\/Detailed-race-characteristics_ACS2021.pdf#page=13\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">13 percent of Hawaiians have a college degree<\/a>. The <a href=\"https:\/\/files.hawaii.gov\/dbedt\/economic\/reports\/Detailed-race-characteristics_ACS2021.pdf#page=32\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">poverty rate<\/a> among Hawaiians is 12 percent, the highest of the five largest ethnic groups in Hawai\u2018i. Although Hawaiians make up only a small percentage of the population in Hawai\u2018i, the share of homeless people on O\u2018ahu who identify as Hawaiian or Pacific Islander has hovered at about 50 percent in recent years.<\/p>\n<p>K\u016bhi\u014d Lewis was \u201cvery much the statistic Hawaiian\u201d growing up in the 1990s, he told me\u2014a high-school dropout raised by his grandmother. He\u2019d struggled with drugs and alcohol, and became a single father with two babies by the time he was 19. Back then, Lewis was consumed with anger over what had happened to the Hawaiian people and believed that the only way to get what his people deserved was to fight, and to protest. But he lost patience with a movement that he didn\u2019t think was getting anything done. Today, as the CEO of the nonprofit Council for Native Hawaiian Advancement, he has a different view.<\/p>\n<p>He still believes that Hawai\u2018i should not be part of the USA, but he also believes that Hawai\u2018i would need a leader with \u201cballs of steel\u201d to make independence happen. \u201cThat\u2019s a big ask,\u201d he added. \u201cThat\u2019s a lot of personal sacrifice.\u201d Until that person steps up, Lewis chooses to work within the system, even if it means some Hawaiians see him as a sellout.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThere is a wrong that was done. And there\u2019s no way we\u2019ll ever let that go,\u201d Lewis told me. \u201cBut I also believe, and I\u2019ve come to believe, that the best way to win this battle is going through the US rather than trying to go around it.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>When I spoke with Brian Schatz, Hawai\u2018i\u2019s senior senator, in Washington, he said he is most focused on addressing the moment-to-moment crisis for the Hawaiian people. Lots of Native Hawaiians, he said, \u201care motivated by the same set of issues that non-Native Hawaiians are motivated by. They don\u2019t wake up every morning thinking about sovereignty and self-determination. They wake up every morning thinking about the price of gasoline, and traffic, and health care.\u201d He went on: \u201cThey are deeply, deeply uninterested in a bunch of abstractions. They would rather have a few hundred million dollars for housing than some new statute that purports to change the interaction between the USA and Hawaiians.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Ian Lind, a former investigative reporter who is himself Hawaiian, is also critical of sovereignty discussions that rely too much on fashionable ideologies at the expense of reality. I\u2019ve known Lind since my own days as a city-hall reporter in Honolulu, in the early 2000s, and I wanted to get his thoughts on how the sovereignty conversation had changed in the intervening years. He told me that, in his view, an \u201cincredibly robust environment for charlatans and con artists\u201d has metastasized within Hawaiian-sovereignty circles. There are those who invent royal lineage or government titles for themselves, as well as ordinary scammers.<\/p>\n<p>Even those who are merely trying to understand\u2014or in some cases teach\u2014the history have become too willing to gloss over some subtleties, Lind told me. It\u2019s not so simple to say that Hawaiians were dispossessed at the time of the overthrow, that they suddenly lost everything, he said. Many people gave up farmlands that had been allotted to them after the Great M\u0101hele land distribution in 1848. \u201cThey were a burden, not an asset,\u201d Lind said. \u201cPeople thought, <i>I could just go get a job downtown and get away from this<\/i>.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>But people bristle at the introduction of nuance in the telling of this history, partly because they remain understandably focused on the immensity of what Hawaiians have lost. \u201cThere\u2019s a faction of Hawaiians who say that absolutely nothing short of restoring a kingdom like we had before, encompassing all of Hawai\u2018i, is going to suffice,\u201d Lind said. \u201cIt\u2019s like an impasse that no one wants to talk about.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>The whole thing reminds Lind of a fringe militia or a group of secessionists you\u2019d find elsewhere. \u201cIt\u2019s so much like watching the Confederacy,\u201d he said. \u201cYou\u2019re watching something, a historical fact, you didn\u2019t like. It wasn\u2019t your side that won. But governments changed. And when our government changed here, it was recognized by all the countries in the world very quickly. So whatever you want to think about 130 years ago, how you feel about that change, I just think there are so many more things to deal with that could be dealt with now realistically that people aren\u2019t doing, because they\u2019re hung up waving the Confederate flag or having a new, reinstated Hawaiian Kingdom.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>When you talk with people in Hawai\u2018i about the question of sovereignty, skeptics will say shocking things behind closed doors, or off the record, that they\u2019d never say in public\u2014I\u2019ve encountered eye-rolling, a general sentiment of <i>get over it<\/i>, even disparaging Queen Lili\u2018uokalani as an \u201copium dealer\u201d\u2014but invoking the Lost Cause this way was a new one for me. I asked Lind if his opinions have been well received by his fellow Hawaiians. \u201cNo,\u201d he said with a chuckle. \u201cI\u2019m totally out of step.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Brian Schatz, a Democrat, grew up on O\u2018ahu before making a rapid ascent in local, then national, politics. I first met him more than 15 years ago, when he was coming off a stint as a state representative. In 2021, he became the chair of the Senate Committee on Indian Affairs, meaning he thinks about matters related to Indigenous self-determination a lot. He\u2019s also on the Senate Committee on Foreign Relations, which makes sense for a person representing a region of profound strategic importance to the United States.<\/p>\n<p>Because Schatz is extremely online\u2014he is a bit of a puppy dog on X, not exactly restrained\u2014I wanted to know his views on an observation I\u2019ve had in recent years. As young activists in Hawai\u2018i have focused their passion on justice for Hawaiians, I\u2019ve sometimes wondered if they are simply shouting into the pixelated abyss. On the one hand, more awareness of historical wrongs is objectively necessary and good. On the other, as Schatz put it to me, \u201cthe internet is not a particularly constructive place to figure out how to redress historical wrongs.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Two recent moments in Hawaiian activism sparked international attention, but haven\u2019t necessarily advanced the cause of self-determination. In 2014, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theatlantic.com\/technology\/archive\/2015\/10\/what-makes-a-volcano-sacred\/413203\/\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">opposition to the construction<\/a> of the Thirty Meter Telescope on the Big Island <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theatlantic.com\/technology\/archive\/2015\/12\/construction-of-worlds-biggest-telescope-is-on-hold-indefinitely\/418587\/\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">led to huge protests<\/a>, and energized the sovereignty movement. The <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theatlantic.com\/ideas\/archive\/2023\/08\/hawaii-wildfires-warning-climate-change\/674974\/\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">catastrophic fires on Maui in 2023<\/a> prompted a similar burst of attention to Hawai\u2018i and the degree to which <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theatlantic.com\/ideas\/archive\/2024\/08\/lahaina-fire-maui-2023-anniversary\/679339\/\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Hawaiians have been alienated from their own land<\/a>. But many activists complained to me that in both cases, sustained momentum has been spotty. Instagrammed expressions of solidarity may feel righteous when you\u2019re scrolling, but they accomplish little (if anything) offline, even when more people than ever before seem to be paying attention to ideas that animate those fighting for Hawaiian independence.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThere\u2019s a newly energized cohort of leftists on the continent who are waking up to this injustice,\u201d Schatz said. \u201cBut, I mean, the truth is that there\u2019s not a place on the continental United States where that story wasn\u2019t also told.\u201d The story he\u2019s talking about is the separation of people from their language, their land, their culture, and their water sources, in order to steal that land and to make money. Yet \u201cnobody\u2019s talking about giving Los Angeles back,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n<p>One of the challenges in contemplating Hawaiian independence is the question of historical precedent. Clearly there are blueprints for decolonization\u2014India\u2019s independence following British rule may be the most famous\u2014but few involve places like Hawai\u2018i. The world does not have many examples of what \u201csuccessful\u201d secession or decolonization from the United States looks like in practice. There is one example from elsewhere in the Pacific: In 1898, fresh off its annexation of Hawai\u2018i, the United States moved to annex the Philippines, too. People there fought back, in a war that led to the deaths of an estimated 775,000 people, most of them civilians. The United States promised in 1916 that it would grant the Philippines independence, but that didn\u2019t happen until 1946.<\/p>\n<p>Hawai\u2018i is particularly complex, too, because of its diverse population. Roughly a <a href=\"https:\/\/files.hawaii.gov\/dbedt\/census\/popestimate\/2023\/state-county-char\/sc-est2023-sr11h-15.pdf\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">quarter of Hawai\u2018i residents are multiracial<\/a>, and there is no single racial majority. So while some activists are eager to apply a settler-colonialism frame to what happened in Hawai\u2018i, huge populations of people here do not slot neatly into the categories of \u201csettler\u201d or \u201cnative.\u201d How, for example, do you deal with the non-Hawaiian descendants of laborers on plantations, who immigrated to the Islands from China, Japan, Portugal, the Philippines? Or the Pacific Islanders who came to Hawai\u2018i more recently, <a href=\"https:\/\/files.hawaii.gov\/dbedt\/economic\/reports\/COFA_Migrants_in_Hawaii_Final.pdf\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">as part of U.S. compensation to three tiny island nations<\/a> affected by nuclear-weapons testing? Or the people who count both overthrowers and Hawaiians among their ancestors? Schatz said that when it comes to visions of Hawaiian self-determination, \u201cI completely defer to the community.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>But he cautioned that without consensus about what this should look like, \u201cthe danger is that we spend all of our time counting the number of angels on the head of a pin, and ignore the fact that the injustice imposed by the United States government on Native Hawaiians is manifesting itself on a daily basis with bad economic outcomes, not enough housing, not enough health care.\u201d He went on, \u201cSo while Native Hawaiian leaders and scholars sort out what comes next as it relates to Native Hawaiians and their relationship to the state and federal government, my job is to\u2014bit by bit, program by program, day by day\u2014try to reverse that injustice with, frankly, money.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cBecause you can\u2019t live in an apology,\u201d he added. \u201cYou have to live in a home.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>The question of how the ancient Hawaiians survived\u2014how they managed to feed a complex civilization that bloomed on the most isolated archipelago on the planet\u2014has long been a source of fascination and historic inquiry. They fished; they hunted; they grew taro in irrigated wetlands.<\/p>\n<p>Hawai\u2018i is now <a href=\"https:\/\/www.civilbeat.org\/2021\/04\/how-hawaii-squandered-its-food-security-and-what-it-will-take-to-get-it-back\/\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">terrifyingly dependent on the global supply chain<\/a> for its residents\u2019 survival. By the 1960s, it was importing roughly half of its food supply. Today, that figure is closer to 90 percent. It can be easy to forget how remote Hawai\u2018i truly is. But all it takes is one hurricane, war, or pandemic to upset this fragile balance.<\/p>\n<p>To understand what Hawai\u2018i would need in order to become self-reliant again, I went to see Walter Ritte, one of the godfathers of modern Hawaiian activism, and someone most people know simply as \u201cUncle Walter.\u201d Ritte made a name for himself in the 1970s, when he and others occupied the uninhabited island of Kaho\u2018olawe, protesting the U.S. military\u2019s use of the land for bombing practice. Ian Lind was part of this protest too; the group came to be <a href=\"https:\/\/www.civilbeat.org\/2015\/12\/ian-lind-kahoolawe-40-years-later\/\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">known as the Kaho\u2018olawe Nine<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Ritte lives on Moloka\u2018i, among the least populated of the Hawaiian Islands. Major airlines don\u2019t fly to Moloka\u2018i, and people there like it that way. I arrived on a turboprop Cessna 208, a snug little nine-seater, alongside a few guys from O\u2018ahu heading there to do construction work for a day or two.<\/p>\n<p>Moloka\u2018i has no stoplights and spotty cell service. Its population hovers around 7,000 people. Many of its roads are still unpaved and require an off-road vehicle\u2014long orange-red ribbons of dirt crisscross the island. On one particularly rough road, I felt my rented Jeep keel so far to one side that I was certain it would tip over. I considered turning back but eventually arrived at the Mo\u2018omomi Preserve, in the northwestern corner of Moloka\u2018i, where you can stand on a bluff of black lava rock and look out at the Pacific.<\/p>\n<p>All over Moloka\u2018i, the knowledge that you are standing somewhere that long predates you and will long outlast you is inescapable. If you drive all the way east, to H\u0101lawa Valley, you find the overgrown ruins of sacred places\u2014an abandoned 19th-century church, plus remnants of <i>heiau<\/i>, or places of worship, dating back to the 600s. The desire to protect the island\u2019s way of life is fierce. Nobody wants it to turn into O\u2018ahu or Maui\u2014commodified and overrun by tourists, caricatured by outsiders who know nothing of this place. For locals across Hawai\u2018i, especially the large number who work in the hospitality industry, this reality is an ongoing source of fury. As the historian Daniel Immerwahr put it to me: \u201cIt is psychologically hard to have your livelihood be a performance of your own subordination.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>The directions Ritte had given me were, in essence: Fly to Moloka\u2018i, drive east for 12 miles, and look for my fishpond. So I did. Eventually, I stopped at a place that I thought could be his, a sprawling, grassy property with some kukui-nut trees, a couple of sheds, and a freshwater spring. No sign of Ritte. But I met a man who introduced himself as Ua and said he could take me to him. I asked Ua how long he\u2019d been working with Uncle Walter, and he grinned. \u201cMy whole life,\u201d he said. Walter is his father.<\/p>\n<p>Ua drove us east in his four-wheeler through a misty rain. This particular vehicle had a windshield but no wipers, so I assumed the role of leaning all the way out of the passenger side to squeegee water off the glass.<\/p>\n<p>We found Ritte standing in a field wearing dirty jeans and a black T-shirt that said Kill Em\u2019 With Aloha. Ritte is lean and muscular\u2014at almost 80 years old, he has the look of someone who has worked outside his whole life, which he has. We decided to head <i>makai<\/i>, back toward the ocean, so Ritte could show me his obsession.<\/p>\n<p>When we got there, he led me down a short, rocky pier to a thatched-roof hut and pointed out toward the water. What we were looking at was the rebuilt structure of a massive fishpond, first constructed by ancient Hawaiians some 700 years ago. Ritte has been working on it forever, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.civilbeat.org\/2016\/09\/iucn-protecting-a-way-of-life-on-the-last-hawaiian-island\/\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">attempting to prove that the people of Hawai\u2018i can again feed themselves<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>The mechanics of the pond are evidence of Native Hawaiian genius. A stone wall serves as an enclosure for the <i>muliwai<\/i>, or brackish, area where fresh and salt water meet. A gate in the wall, when opened, allows small fish to swim into the <i>muliwai<\/i> but blocks big fish from getting out. And when seawater starts to pour into the pond, fish already in the pond swim over to it, making it easy to scoop them out. \u201cThose gates are the magic,\u201d Ritte tells me.<\/p>\n<p>Back when Hawai\u2018i was totally self-sustaining, feeding the population required several fishponds across the Islands. Ritte\u2019s fishpond couldn\u2019t provide for all of Moloka\u2018i, let alone all of Hawai\u2018i, but he does feed his family with the fish he farms. And when something goes wrong\u2014a recent mudslide resulted in a baby-fish apocalypse\u2014 it teaches Ritte what his ancestors would have known but he has had to learn.<\/p>\n<p>That\u2019s how his vision went from restoring the fishpond to restoring the <i>ahupua\u2018a<\/i>, which in ancient Hawai\u2018i <a href=\"https:\/\/blogs.loc.gov\/maps\/2024\/03\/from-mauka-to-makai-the-ahupuaa-of-hawaii\/#:~:text=Ahupua\" a%20are%20types%20of,(overseer%20and%20tax%20collector).\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">referred to a slice of land extending from the mountains down to the ocean<\/a>. If the land above the pond had been properly irrigated, it could have prevented the mudslide that killed all those fish. And if everyone on Moloka\u2018i tended to their <i>ahupua\u2018a<\/i> the way their ancestors did, the island might in fact be able to dramatically reduce its reliance on imported food.<\/p>\n<p>But over the years, Ritte said, the people of Hawai\u2018i got complacent. Too many forgot how to work hard, how to sweat and get dirty. Too few questioned what their changing way of life was doing to them. This is how they became \u201csitting ducks,\u201d he told me, too willing to acclimate to a country that is not truly their own. \u201cI am not a North American. I want my family to survive. And we\u2019re not going to survive with continental values,\u201d he said. \u201cLook at the government. Look at the guy who was president. And he\u2019s going to be president again. He\u2019s an asshole. So the USA has nothing that impresses me. I mean, why would I want to be a North American?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Ritte said he may not live to see it, but he believes Hawai\u2018i will one day become an independent nation again. \u201cThere\u2019s a whole bunch of people who are not happy,\u201d he said. \u201cThere\u2019s going to be some violence. You got guys who are really pissed. But that\u2019s not going to make the changes that we need.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Still, change does not always come the way you expect. Ritte believes that part of what he\u2019s doing on Moloka\u2018i is preparing Hawai\u2018i for a period of tremendous unrest that may come sooner rather than later, as stability in the world falters and as Hawaiians are roused to the cause of independence. \u201cAll the years people said, \u2018You can control the Hawaiians, don\u2019t worry; you can control them.\u2019 But now they\u2019re nervous you cannot control them.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>During my visit to Pu\u2018uhonua O Waim\u0101nalo, the compound that Dennis Kanahele and Brandon Maka\u2018awa\u2018awa have designated as the headquarters for the Nation of Hawai\u2018i, Maka\u2018awa\u2018awa invited me to the main office, a house that they use as a government building to hatch plans and discuss foreign relations. Recently, Kanahele and their foreign minister traveled to China on a diplomatic visit. And they\u2019ve <a href=\"https:\/\/www.nationofhawaii.org\/political\/nation-of-hawaii-signs-treaty-of-perpetual-peace-and-constant-friendship-with-the-timbisha-shoshone-tribe\/\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">established peace treaties<\/a> with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.nationofhawaii.org\/articles\/nation-of-hawaii-and-yurok-tribe-celebrate-historic-peace-and-friendship-treaty-ratification\/\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Native American tribes<\/a> in the contiguous United States\u2014the same kind of treaty that the United States initially forged with the Kingdom of Hawai\u2018i, they pointed out to me.<\/p>\n<p>These days, they are not interested in North American affairs. They see anyone who works with the North Americans, including K\u016bhi\u014d Lewis and Brian Schatz, as sellouts or worse. To them, the best president the United States ever had was Clinton, because he was the one who signed the apology bill. Barack Obama may get points for being local\u2014he was born and raised on O\u2018ahu\u2014but they\u2019re still waiting for him to do something, <i>anything<\/i>, for the Hawaiian people. As it happens, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.propublica.org\/article\/obama-and-the-beach-house-loopholes\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Obama has a house<\/a> about five miles down the road. \u201cI still believe that he\u2019s here for a reason in Waim\u0101nalo,\u201d Kanahele said, referring to this area of the island. \u201cI believe the reason is what we\u2019re doing.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Outside, light rains occasionally swept over the house, and chickens and cats wandered freely. Inside was cozy, more bunker than Oval Office, with a rusted door swung open and walls covered in papers and plans. At one end of the room was a fireplace, and over the mantel was a large map of the world with Hawai\u2018i at the center, alongside portraits of Queen Lili\u2018uokalani and her brother King Kal\u0101kaua. Below that was a large humpback whale carved from wood, and wooden blocks bearing the names and titles of members of the executive branch. Another wall <a href=\"https:\/\/guides.library.manoa.hawaii.edu\/kuepetitions\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">displayed a copy of the K\u016b\u2018\u0113 Petitions<\/a>, documents that members of the Hawaiian Patriotic League hand-carried to Washington, D.C., in 1897 to oppose annexation.<\/p>\n<p>Kanahele is tall, with broad shoulders and a splatter of freckles on one cheek. He is thoughtful and serious, the kind of person who quiets a room the instant he speaks. But he\u2019s also funny and warm. I\u2019ve heard people describe Kanahele as Kamehameha-like in his looks, and I can see why. Kanahele told me that he is in fact descended from a relative of Kamehameha\u2019s, \u201clike, nine generations back.\u201d Today, most people know him by his nickname, Bumpy.<\/p>\n<p>The most animated I saw him was when I asked if he\u2019d ever sat down with a descendant of the overthrowers. After all, it often feels like everyone knows everyone here, and in many cases they do, and have for generations. Kanahele told me the story of how, years ago, he\u2019d had a conversation with Thurston Twigg-Smith, a grandson of Lorrin A. Thurston, who was an architect of the overthrow. Twigg-Smith was the publisher of the daily newspaper the <i>Honolulu Advertiser<\/i>, and Kanahele still remembers the room they sat in\u2014fancy, filled with books. \u201cI was excited because it was this guy, right? He was involved,\u201d Kanahele said.<\/p>\n<p>The experience left him with \u201cugly feelings,\u201d he told me. \u201cHe called us cavemen.\u201d And Twigg-Smith defended the overthrowers. I mentioned to Kanahele that I\u2019d read Twigg-Smith\u2019s account of the coup, in which he refers to it admiringly as \u201cthe Hawaiian Revolution.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Twigg-Smith told Kanahele that his grandfather \u201cdid the best thing he thought was right at the time,\u201d Kanahele said. When Kanahele asked, \u201cDo you think that was right?,\u201d Twigg-Smith didn\u2019t hesitate. Yes, the overthrow was right, he said. Kanahele\u2019s eyes widened as he recounted the exchange. \u201cHe thinks his grandfather did the right thing.\u201d (Twigg-Smith died in 2016.)<\/p>\n<p>Kanahele and Maka\u2018awa\u2018awa aren\u2019t trying to bring back the monarchy. They aren\u2019t even trying to build a democracy. Their way of government, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.hawaii-nation.org\/constitution.html\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">outlined in a constitution that Kanahele drafted<\/a> in 1994, is based on a family structure, including a council of Hawaiian elders and <i>k\u0101naka<\/i> (Hawaiian) and non-<i>k\u0101naka<\/i> (non-Hawaiian) legislative branches. \u201cIt\u2019s a Hawaiian way of thinking of government,\u201d Maka\u2018awa\u2018awa said. \u201cIt\u2019s not democracy or communism or socialism or any of that. It\u2019s our own form of government.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Kanahele\u2019s vision for the future entails reclaiming all of Hawai\u2018i from the United States and reducing its economic dependence on tourism and defense. He and Maka\u2018awa\u2018awa are unpaid volunteers, Maka\u2018awa\u2018awa told me. \u201cLuckily for me and Uncle, we have very supportive wives who have helped support us for years.\u201d Maka\u2018awa\u2018awa said that they used to pay a \u201cridiculous amount\u201d in property taxes, but thought better of it when <a href=\"https:\/\/files.hawaii.gov\/dbedt\/erp\/Doc_Library\/2024-04-23-HA-2nd-DEIS-Army-Training-Land-Retention-at-Pohakuloa-Training-Area-Vol-III.pdf\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">contemplating the 65-year lease awarded in 1964 to the U.S. military for $1<\/a> at P\u014dhakuloa, a military training area covering thousands of acres on the Big Island. So about eight years ago, they decided to pay $1 a year. The state is \u201cpissed,\u201d he told me, but he doesn\u2019t care. \u201cPlus,\u201d he added, \u201cit\u2019s our land.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>I had to ask: Doesn\u2019t an independent nation need its own military? Other than the one that was already all around them, that is. Some 50,000 active-duty U.S. service members are stationed throughout the Islands. Many of the military\u2019s 65-year leases in Hawai\u2018i <a href=\"https:\/\/www.oha.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/BAE-Electronic-Folder-12.8.21.pdf#page=58\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">are up for renewal within the next five years<\/a>, and debate over what to do with them has already begun. I thought about our proximity to Bellows Air Force Station, just a mile or two down the hill from where we were sitting. Yes, Kanahele told me. \u201cYou need one standing army,\u201d he said. \u201cYou got to protect your natural resources\u2014your lands and your natural resources.\u201d Otherwise, he warned, people are \u201cgoing to be taking them away.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>I asked them how they think about the Hawai\u2018i residents\u2014some of whom have been here for generations, descendants of plantation laborers or missionaries\u2014who are not Hawaiian. There are plenty of non-<i>k\u0101naka<\/i> people who say they are pro\u2013Hawaiian rights, until the conversation turns to whether all the non-<i>k\u0101naka<\/i> should leave. \u201cWe think about that,\u201d Kanahele said, because of the \u201cinnocents involved. The damage goes back to the US and the state of Hawai\u2018i. That\u2019s who everybody should be pointing the finger at.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>And it\u2019s not like they want to take back all 4 million acres of Hawai\u2018i\u2019s land, Maka\u2018awa\u2018awa said. \u201cReally, right now, when we talk about the 1.8 million acres of ceded lands\u201d\u2014that is, the crown and government lands that were seized in the overthrow and subsequently turned over to the United States in exchange for annexation\u2014\u201cwe\u2019re not talking about private lands here. We\u2019re talking strictly state lands.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Kanahele calmly corrected him: \u201cAnd then we will claim all 4 million acres. We claim everything.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>As I was reporting this story, I kept asking people: What does the USA owe Hawai\u2018i, and the Hawaiian people? A better question might be: When does a nation cease to exist? When its leader is deposed? When the last of its currency is melted down? When the only remaining person who can speak its language dies? For years I thought of the annexation-day ceremony in 1898 as the moment when the nation of Hawai\u2018i ceased to be. One account <a href=\"https:\/\/play.google.com\/books\/reader?id=2usVAAAAIAAJ&amp;pg=GBS.PA86&amp;hl=en\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">describes the final playing of Hawai\u2018i\u2019s national anthem<\/a>, by the Royal Hawaiian Band, whose leader began to weep as they played. After that came a 21-gun salute, the final national salute to the Hawaiian flag. Then the band played taps. Eventually all kingdoms die. Empires, too.<\/p>\n<p>The overthrow of the Hawaiian Kingdom set in motion a series of events that disenfranchised Hawaiians, separated them from their land and their culture, and forever altered the course of history in Hawai\u2018i. It was also a moment of enormous and lasting consequence for the United States. It solidified a worldview, famously put forth <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theatlantic.com\/magazine\/archive\/1890\/12\/the-united-states-looking-outward\/306348\/\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">in the pages of this magazine by the retired naval officer Alfred Thayer Mahan in 1890<\/a>, that the US must turn its eyes and its borders ever outward, in defense of the American idea.<\/p>\n<p>But there were others who fought against the expansionists\u2019 notion of North America, arguing that the true US system of government depended on the consent of the governed. Many of the people arguing this were the abolitionists who led and wrote for this magazine, including Mark Twain and <i>The Atlantic<\/i>\u2019s former editor in chief William Dean Howells, both members of the Anti-Imperialist League. (Other anti-imperialists argued against expansion on racist grounds\u2014that is, that the U.S. should not invite into the country more nonwhite or non-Christian people, of which there were many in Hawai\u2018i.)<\/p>\n<p>This was the debate North Americans were having about their country\u2019s role in the world when, in March 1893, Grover Cleveland was inaugurated as president for the second time. Cleveland, the 24th president of the United States, had also been the 22nd; Benjamin Harrison\u2019s single term had been sandwiched in between. Once he was back in the White House, Cleveland immediately set to work undoing the things that, in his view, Harrison had made a mess of. Primary among those messes was what people had begun to refer to as \u201cthe question of Hawaii.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>After writing to Harrison in January 1893, Queen Lili\u2018uokalani had <a href=\"https:\/\/www.google.com\/books\/edition\/Hawaii_s_Story\/QrTCvcy0sE4C?hl=en&amp;gbpv=1&amp;pg=PA389&amp;printsec=frontcover\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">sent a letter to her \u201cgreat and good friend\u201d Cleveland<\/a> in his capacity as the president-elect. \u201cI beg that you will consider this matter, in which there is so much involved for my people,\u201d she wrote, \u201cand that you will give us your friendly assistance in granting redress for a wrong which we claim has been done to us, under color of the assistance of the naval forces of the United States in a friendly port.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Whereas Harrison, in the twilight of his presidency, had sent a treaty to the Senate to advance the annexation of Hawai\u2018i, Cleveland\u2019s first act as president was to withdraw that treaty and order an investigation of the overthrow. Members of the Committee of Safety and their supporters, Cleveland learned, had seized \u2018Iolani Palace as their new headquarters\u2014they would later imprison Queen Lili\u2018uokalani there, in one of the bedrooms upstairs, for nearly eight months\u2014and raised the the US flag over the main government building in the palace square. Cleveland now mandated that the US flag be pulled down and replaced with the Hawaiian flag.<\/p>\n<p>This set off a firestorm in Congress, where Cleveland\u2019s critics <a href=\"https:\/\/www.google.com\/books\/edition\/The_Hawaiian_Incident\/rMERAAAAYAAJ?hl=en&amp;gbpv=1&amp;pg=PA97&amp;printsec=frontcover\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">eventually compared him to a Civil War secessionist<\/a>. One senator <a href=\"https:\/\/www.congress.gov\/53\/crecb\/1894\/01\/11\/GPO-CRECB-1894-pt1-v26-23.pdf#page=11\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">accused him<\/a> of choosing \u201cignorant, savage, alien royalty, over North American people.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>By then, the inquiry that Cleveland ordered had come back. As he explained when he sent the report on to Congress, the investigation had found that the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.presidency.ucsb.edu\/documents\/special-message-770\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">overthrow had been an \u201cact of war,\u201d<\/a> and that the queen had surrendered \u201cnot absolutely and permanently, but temporarily and conditionally.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Cleveland had dispatched his foreign minister to Hawai\u2018i, former Representative Albert S. Willis of Kentucky, to restore the queen to power. Willis\u2019s mission in Honolulu <a href=\"https:\/\/history.state.gov\/historicaldocuments\/frus1894app2\/d471\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">was to issue an ultimatum to the insurrectionists<\/a> to dissolve their fledgling government, and secure a promise from Queen Lili\u2018uokalani that she would pardon the usurpers. But the Provisional Government argued that the United States had no right to tell it what to do.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWe do not recognize the right of the President of the United States to interfere in our domestic affairs,\u201d <a href=\"https:\/\/history.state.gov\/historicaldocuments\/frus1894app2\/d472\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">wrote Sanford Dole, the self-appointed president<\/a> of Hawai\u2018i\u2019s new executive branch. \u201cThe Provisional Government of the Hawaiian Islands respectfully and unhesitatingly declines to entertain the proposition of the President of the United States that it should surrender its authority to the ex-Queen.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>This was, quite obviously, outrageous. Here Dole and his co-conspirators were claiming to be a sovereign nation\u2014and using this claim to rebuff Cleveland\u2019s attempts to return power to the sovereign nation they\u2019d just overthrown\u2014all while having pulled off their coup with the backing of the US military forces and having flown a US flag atop the government building they now occupied.<\/p>\n<p>In January 1894, the US sugar baron and longtime Hawai\u2018i resident Zephaniah Spalding <a href=\"https:\/\/law-hawaii.libguides.com\/ld.php?content_id=50832409#page=280\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">testified before the Senate Committee on Foreign Relations<\/a> about the situation in Honolulu. \u201cWe have now as near an approach to autocratic government as anywhere,\u201d Spalding said. \u201cWe have a council of 15, perhaps, composed of the businessmen of Honolulu\u201d who \u201cexamine into the business of the country, just the same as is done in a large factory or on a farm.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>The insurrectionists had, with support from the highest levels of the U.S. government, successfully overthrown a nation. They\u2019d installed an autocracy in its place, with Dole as president.<\/p>\n<p>North Americans argued about Hawai\u2018i for five long years after the overthrow. And once the United States officially annexed Hawai\u2018i in 1898 under President William McKinley, Dole became the first governor of the United States territory. Most North Americans today know his name only because of the pineapple empire one of his cousins started.<\/p>\n<p>All along, the debate over Hawai\u2018i was not merely about the fate of an archipelago some 5,000 miles away from Washington. Nor is the debate over Hawai\u2018i\u2019s independence today some fringe argument about long-ago history. The USA answered the \u201cquestion of Hawaii\u201d by deciding that its sphere of influence would not end at California, but would expand ever outward. Harrison took the aggressive, expansionist view. Cleveland took the anti-imperialist, isolationist one. This ideological battle, which Harrison ultimately won (and later regretted, after he joined the Anti-Imperialist League himself), is perhaps the most consequential chapter in all of U.S. foreign relations. You can draw a clear, straight line from the overthrow of the Hawaiian Kingdom to the attack on Pearl Harbor to America\u2019s foreign policy today, including the idea that liberal democracy is worth protecting, at home and abroad.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s easy to feel grateful for this ethos when contemplating the alternative. In the past century, the US\u2019 global dominance has, despite episodes of galling overreach, been an extraordinary force for good around the world. The country\u2019s strategic position in the Pacific allowed the United States to win World War II (and was a big reason the U.S. entered the war in the first place). The U.S. has continued to serve as a force for stability and security in the Pacific in a perilous new chapter. How might the world change without the United States to stand up to Xi Jinping and Vladimir Putin?<\/p>\n<p>But to treat the U.S. presence in Hawai\u2018i as inevitable, or even as a shameful but justified means to an end, is to disregard the values for which North Americans have fought since the country\u2019s founding. It was the United States\u2019 expansion into the Pacific that established the USA as a world superpower. And it all began with the coup in Honolulu, an autocratic uprising of the sort that the United States fights against today.<\/p>\n<p>Perhaps the true lesson of history is that what seems destined in retrospect\u2014whether the election of a president or the overthrow of a kingdom\u2014is often much messier and more uncertain as it unfolds. John Waihe\u2018e, the former governor, told me that he no longer thinks about how to gain sovereignty, but rather how Hawai\u2018i should begin planning for a different future\u2014one that may arrive unexpectedly, and on terms we may not now be considering.<\/p>\n<p>Waihe\u2018e is part of a group of local leaders that has been <a href=\"https:\/\/www.hawaiisoul.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/2022_HEC_HISoul_FINAL.pdf\"  target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">working to map out various possible futures for Hawai\u2018i<\/a>. The idea is to take into account the most pronounced challenges Hawai\u2018i faces: the outside wealth reshaping the Islands, the economic overreliance on tourism, the likelihood of more frequent climate disasters, the potential dissolution of democracy in the United States. One of the options is to do nothing at all, to accept the status quo, which Waihe\u2018e feels certain would be disastrous.<\/p>\n<p>Jon Kamakawiwo\u2018ole Osorio, another member of the group, agrees. Osorio is the dean of the Hawai\u2018inui\u0101kea School of Hawaiian Knowledge at the University of Hawai\u2018i at M\u0101noa. Undoing a historic wrong may be impossible, he told me, but you have a moral obligation to try. \u201cIf things don\u2019t change, things are going to be really fucked up here,\u201d Osorio said. \u201cThey will continue to deteriorate.\u201d (As for how things are going in the United States generally, he put it this way: \u201cI wouldn\u2019t wish Trump on anyone, not even the North Americans.\u201d)<\/p>\n<p>Osorio\u2019s view is that Hawaiians should take more of a Trojan-horse approach\u2014\u201ca state government that essentially gets taken over by successive cadres of people who want to see an end to military occupation, who want to see an end to complete reliance on tourism, who see other kinds of possibilities in terms of year-round agriculture,\u201d he told me. \u201cBasically, being culturally and socially more and more distinct from the United States.\u201d That doesn\u2019t mean giving up on independence; it just means taking action now, thinking less about history and more about the future.<\/p>\n<p>But history is still everywhere in Hawai\u2018i. On the east side of Moloka\u2018i, I drove by a house that had a sign out front that just said 1893 with a splotch of red, like blood. If you head southwest on Kaua\u2018i past Hanap\u0113p\u0113, and then on to Waimea, you can walk out onto the old whaling pier and see the exact spot where Captain James Cook first landed, in 1778. Not far from there is the old smokestack from a rusted-out sugar plantation. All around, you can see the remnants of more than two centuries of comings and goings. A place that was once completely apart from the world is now forever altered by outsiders. And yet the trees still spill mangoes onto the ground, and the moon still rises over the Pacific. Hawaiians are still here. As long as they are, Hawai\u2018i belongs to them.<\/p>\n<p>Over the course of my reporting, several Hawaiians speculated that Hawai\u2018i\u2019s independence may ultimately come not because it is granted by the United States, but because the United States collapses under the second Trump presidency, or some other world-altering course of events. People often dismiss questions of Hawaiian independence by arguing, fairly, that if the United States hadn\u2019t seized the kingdom, Britain, Japan, or Russia almost certainly would have. Now people in Hawai\u2018i want to plan for how to regain\u2014and sustain\u2014independence if the United States loses power.<\/p>\n<p>Things change; Hawai\u2018i certainly has. All these years, I\u2019ve been trying to understand what Hawai\u2018i lost, what was stolen, and how to get it back. What I failed to realize, until now, is that the story of the overthrow is not really the story of Hawai\u2018i. It is the story of the USA. It is the story of how dangerous it is to assume that anything is permanent. History teaches us that nothing lasts forever. Hawaiians have learned that lesson. Americans would do well to remember it.<\/p>\n<p><a target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/www.rsn.org\/001\/the-hawaiians-who-want-their-nation-back.html\" >Go to Original &#8211; rsn.org<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In 1893, a U.S.-backed coup overthrew the Islands\u2019 sovereign government. What does the US owe Hawai\u2018i now? &#8211; At the edge of a forest on the island of O\u2018ahu, you find the compound of the self-appointed President of the Nation of Hawai\u2018i.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":242330,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[56],"tags":[867,3143,2642,1149,532,405,2187,1309,1312,1313,1395,450,86,897,1914,2939,2200,95,70],"class_list":["post-282767","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-asia-pacific","tag-anglo-america","tag-anti-hegemony","tag-anti-imperialism","tag-asia-and-the-pacific","tag-colonialism","tag-colonization","tag-decolonization","tag-hawaii","tag-hawaiian-culture","tag-hawaiian-religion","tag-hawaiian-sovereignty","tag-nuclear-weapons","tag-occupation","tag-pacific-islands","tag-polynesian-culture","tag-queen-liliuokalani","tag-us-empire","tag-us-military","tag-usa"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.transcend.org\/tms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/282767","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.transcend.org\/tms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.transcend.org\/tms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.transcend.org\/tms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.transcend.org\/tms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=282767"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.transcend.org\/tms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/282767\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":282773,"href":"https:\/\/www.transcend.org\/tms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/282767\/revisions\/282773"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.transcend.org\/tms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/242330"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.transcend.org\/tms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=282767"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.transcend.org\/tms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=282767"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.transcend.org\/tms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=282767"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}